Irish Feasting
St. Patrick’s Day Connects Culture
Through Food, Drink and Camaraderie
By April Bartel
Photography By Turner Photography Studio
Everybody is Irish on St. Patrick’s Day. At least, it feels that way. Secularly, “St. Paddy’s Day” is an excuse to share good cheer and camaraderie while indulging with something tasty. It’s commemorated with colorful parades, lively dances and flowing music. For the faithful, the Feast of Saint Patrick is a story of bravery, undaunting spirit and overcoming evil. Either way, it’s an opportunity to celebrate Ireland’s unique and far-reaching culture as a valuable seasoning in our melting pot.
Beyond the beer (no green dye needed, thank you), Americans think of corned beef with cabbage as the go-to meal, but that fatty brined beef is our immigrant ancestors’ reinterpretation of a common dish. “Corned” beef retains its pink color due to the curing process, which uses kernel-sized salt crystals. Ireland was a global leader in corned beef production in the 17th century, but today the Irish prefer “bacon” with their greens. That’s a cut from the back of the pig, the loin, not the thin and crispy pork belly we prize here.
What else is on the menu? Ireland is known for great seafood, especially salmon, plump oysters, mussels and clams. Cod is popularly prepared in a crispy batter alongside fried potatoes, the classic fish and chips. And the country’s longstanding agricultural heritage means there’s good stock in beef, lamb and pork. That goes for its renowned cheeses and butter, too. The national dish, Irish Stew, is a hug in a bowl. Its peasant roots give the dish flexibility. It can be thick or thin, swimming with chunks of potato and lamb, seasoned with onion or dressed up with peas and carrots. Fine cutlets or rack of lamb are enjoyable indulgences, as is sweetly spiced ham. Thinking of Irish cuisine evokes simple, hearty, slow-cooked and seasonal meals.
Frederick has several eateries with proud Irish roots. Lines start forming outside of Magoo’s Pub & Eatery and Bushwaller’s early on March 17th. Fans of each know they’ll get tasty food in a buoyant-yet-cozy atmosphere.
Magoo’s owner, Jennifer Dougherty, is a fifth-generation Irish American and a 35-year restauranteur. Her version of corned beef and cabbage is slow cooked overnight. “We sell hundreds and hundreds of pounds of it those weeks leading up to St. Patrick’s Day,” she says. Then it’s back to her other best sellers: Guinness lamb stew, layered shepherd’s pie, chicken pot pie with puff pastry, juicy sausages and crispy potato pancakes (boxty).
She grins, “There are quesadillas in Ireland everywhere you go.” Plus, burgers and wings, thanks to an evolving modern palate. Try the Crabby Jen burger with creamy crab dip or the Irish Chieftain chicken sandwich with bacon and bleu cheese, but don’t miss the Sticky Toffee Pudding for dessert. Twice this month Magoo’s will host five-course tasting dinners with Irish whiskey.
Down the street, Bushwaller’s hits the highlights, too: Bangers and mash, fish and chips and a savory Guinness beef stew. The classic corned beef here gets encores as thick sandwiches and wildly popular Reuben egg rolls with sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Thousand Island dipping sauce. Their Irish nachos sub crispy potato wedges for tortilla chips.
“We even have an amazing Irish-style brunch every Saturday and Sunday throughout the year as well,” says owner Amber DeMorett. The Irish Benedict is poached eggs with Irish bacon on soda bread with Kerrygold cheddar cheese sauce. Along with live music on St. Patrick’s Day, Bushwaller’s is open at 8 a.m. for the annual Kegs ’n’ Eggs event.
If you care to imbibe, both places proffer extensive rosters of fine Irish spirits and authentic beers.
And when the frenzy is over, you always know where to find a little taste of Ireland. “That’s the thing about an Irish pub. It’s like a patchwork quilt.” Dougherty explains, “the atmosphere, food, drink and people, individually, those things are pretty fine. Together, they keep you warm on a cold night.”
That’s something to celebrate.